Waking up on Christmas Eve in Dublin, it was time to check out of the hotel, go peruse the Dublin castle and then make the drive out to Galway. Luckily the rains were holding out and was gifted some sunshine rays on the Dublin castle grounds, it made for a very pretty Christmas Eve morning. After a few hours though, it was time to hit the road for my two and a half hour drive. Heading west, the sky darkened and the clouds started spitting rain at me. Turning on the windshield wipers for the first time I had to laugh because the car was so small, there was only one windshield wiper. I was also hoping for cruise control, but unfortunately that was a no-go. Ever since a knee injury a few years ago, when my right knee is bent for a long period of time in certain positions, it can be quite painful, so some cruise control helps give some reprieve, but without it, my foot tends to just push the gas pedal further toward the floor. I doubt that excuse would get me very far out of a ticket and with the multitude of signs of radar monitored speed limits, I wondered how many tickets I was accumulating.
Finally, I arrived to the Glenlo, and pulled into it’s long winding drive dotted with trees wrapped in Christmas lights, it was delightful! Walking inside from the cold rain and it was everything I hoped for! The place was decked out in decorations, at least one Christmas tree and fireplace in every room, gingerbread houses, gift boxes, and most importantly, hot wine! After freshening up a bit, I made myself cozy in one of the main sitting rooms next to the fireplace with a glass of hot wine in one hand and a book in the other.
I was the only solo traveler there (although it feels like that’s the case 99% of wherever I go), but the other families and couples staying were all so warm hearted! That night I laid my head down to sleep on the freshly lavender misted pillow, incredibly content. Waking up in the next morning on Christmas, I opened the door to a giant, richly red stuffed stocking hanging from on my door. A large smile spread across my face and I dug into the stocking goodies of treats and ornaments and proudly hung the stocking back up inside my room.
After Christmas Dinner, I caught up with an Irish family in one of the sitting rooms who were playing a trivia game and joined in the merriment and tasty beverages to keep hydrated of course. Luckily, I’m not quite as competitive as I used to be and was happy to come in second or third place. 25 years ago the thought of losing in a friendly game of croquet and I became a little Tanya Harding. Thank goodness we mellow with age … and cocktails... I did step aside a couple times to FaceTime and Skype with family and friends in the states sending wishes of Merry Christmas over the pond. As much as I hate how technology has become another appendage, it’s times like these when you can appreciate being able to feel like you are toasting with someone two feet away when in reality there is an ocean between you.
Basking in holiday merriment, I also utilized my time at Glenlo to go out and explore Connemara. I drove the winding roads dodging the sheep filled switchbacks on the wrong side of the road in my one windshield wiper car. I was granny driving around every corner murmuring “must not run over any sheep, don’t want mutton for dinner.” Between the sheep, the rolling hills, castles and cruising the stunning coastline on the Wild Atlantic Way, it was what I had conjured up in my mind as quintessential Ireland.
After a few days, it was time to say goodbye to the Glenlo and hit the road to Cork to round out the holiday. I opted to take a longer route south so that way I could see the Cliffs of Moher. I must say, I had always planned to travel to Ireland in the summer but I could not have been more happy to be there in the quiet of winter. Me and my car, that felt about as small as a Fisher-Price Power Wheels, did not have to contend with a single tour bus driving the narrow country lanes. Upon arrival to the parking lot at the cliffs, I wasn’t sure what to expect but knew things could be a bit squishy with the recent rains so I switched into wellies. Walking up to the edge, there was a pedestrian path made on the inside of a wooden railing to try and deter individuals actually walking on the edge of the cliffs. There were numerous signs to remind us that walking off the set path with one strong gust of wind was all that stood between you flying off the cliffside. That said I had to laugh because the “pedestrian path”, which could barely fit two people wide shoulder to shoulder, was an absolute mud pit with the recent rains! Haha, I didn’t mind at all in my knee-high boots and triumphantly tramped through the mud slightly chuckling past those with a look of despair in anticipating the inevitable, doomed fate of their shiny white sneakers and brand new shoes.
Now, finally moving my gaze to the star of the show, the luscious green cliffs overlooking a marble of deep blue water. The water in the corners of the cliffs swirls up to the sky, dancing mist. Looking out, each cliffs edge less and less until just specks in the landscape. The repeating design of the cliffs poking into the Atlantic in a way it looks like it could never end. I couldn’t tear myself away, I just kept walking further along the cliffs until there were only a handful of people around, the majority of other tourists unwilling to make the investment in more time and effort.
The wind is different at every corner and every step. I naughtily veered away from the path, carefully nudging my way to the edge, almost coming to crawl on all fours. The sun was darting in and out of the clouds, and every breakthrough of rays warmed up my cheeks. It’s an amazing feeling of peace that can fill you, perched on the grass looking out you feel thousands of miles away from distraction.
As the sun began to retire for the day, I too needed to continue onto my journey. I spent the night in Cork and stopped by Blarney Castle on the way back to Dublin to see what all the fuss was about. I gave the Blarney Stone the go-to kiss trying not to think about falling through the railing or the amount of germs on that stone and hoping that gift of eloquence that stone was going to give me was worth it! I’ll let you be the judge ...
